| Lavender is a wonderful
addition to any garden. It smells wonderful, looks beautiful, is drought
tolerant, and deer resistant! (Very important in the Napa Valley.)
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| Which Type of Lavender Do You
Plant? |
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There are truly so many wonderful lavenders
that once you start exploring - we're sure you'll be hooked. At our
test garden we have 26 different varieties. Our suggestion is to get
yourself a copy of Lavender the grower's guide, by Virginia McNaughlan.
It's the best book we've found, plus it has a forward by Joan Head
of the Lavender Bag and a 'write up' by Henry Head of Norfolk Lavender
- both from England, but not related. |
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| Prepare your garden for planting
lavender: |
| 1) |
Check your soil. You should have a Ph
between 6.4 - 8.
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| 2) |
Check drainage. If you have bad drainage,
add one of the following to your soil: a little lime-based soil; builders
sand; mushroom compost; or composted garden debris. You could also
use raised beds with high sand content.
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| 3) |
Use a drip system. You should not use
overhead watering, as it will mildew the plant and the flowers and
stems will become top heavy and droop.
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| 4) |
Use nursery seedlings. Some lavender
is sterile; others are hard to plant from seed. (Note that a 3"-
4" lavender container will quickly catch up to a gallon size
and save you money.)
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| 5) |
Once a plant is established, cut back
on watering. Over-watering is one of the worst things you can do to
your lavender plant.
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| Fertilizer |
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Professionals go back and forth whether
it is a good idea. If you choose to, use organic formula high in nitrogen
when you plant in the beginning of the season. |
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| Harvest or Prune? |
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If you want to use the lavender, Harvest,
if it is only for show, Prune. |
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| To Harvest: |
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Bunch 25-30 stems together and tie with a rubber
band. Hang upside down in a dry dark place or lay flat. This
drying area must NOT be damp. |
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| To Prune: |
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Pruning young plants early helps roots to get
started faster. Pinch strong leaders to promote branching. |
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| Pruning after blooms
have peaked: |
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Clip stems down to 2-3 inches above the wood.
The leaf will protect the wood from frost. |
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We Harvest May through July, then again in late summer or fall.
(We have even harvested another crop in December!)
We prune around Halloween, and turn the plants into pretty soft-green
mounds.
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| Pests |
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We have not seen any here in the Napa
Valley, but have heard of a green caterpillar. |
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| Maintenance |
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Keep the area around your plants weed
free to keep the plants well ventilated. |
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| Propagating |
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It is best to take cuttings 2-4 inches in the summer when the stems
are pliable. Remove all leaves from the stem, dip the end into rooting
hormone, and place it into damp soil mix, which is well ventilated.
When roots appear in a few weeks, pot the stem. It is good to take
cuttings from a well-established plant (at least 5 years old).
You may also take a pliable stem and bend it over the ground by
staking the stem. The stem will then root on its own.
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| What to Expect From Your Plant |
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It takes 2 to 3 years to reach maximum
stage of flowers and foliage. There is a disagreement among horticulturists
whether or not the plants start to lose their maximum potential after
5-7 years. Jennifer met with Henry Head from Norfolk Lavender in England
who stated that they are still harvesting lavender that his mother
planted, over 40 years ago. Regardless, when your plant becomes woody
and this woody foliage is concentrated at the top of the plant, you
may want to replace that plant. |
